Two things I just learned about Chardonnay:

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Somewhere in the last 20 years or so, Chardonnay became the most popular white wine in the world. California became a Mecca of oaky, buttery, easy-drinking Chardonnays, which led to yuppie housewives calling it their “poison,” which led to the mass-production and homogenization of the varietal—which led to a backlash against the wine with the “ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay) movement by wine snobs. In 2002 there were 52 British babies named Chardonnay and another 14 named Chardonay; In 2003 there were 91 Chardonnays born in the UK. Like the character in Sideways who famously announced, “I’m NOT drinking any fucking merlot!”  I pretty much gave up on the Chardonnay after 2000. What a mistake.

Just because every wedding I ever attended featured tidal waves of Chardonnay and because half of Trader Joe’s wine section is dedicated to the style, didn’t mean that there weren’t great producers still meticulously crafting interesting Chardonnays. Case in point: The Stuhlmuller 2007 Estate Chardonnay.

One of the first things I noticed about the wine was the direction on the bottle that said not to serve it too cold. The only other person who served me white wine just south of room temperature was Kevin Kennedy, and I fired him an email to find out more. His response was enlightening:

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“The 50-60 degree range is probably ideal for Chardonnay, with closer to 60 being the most common recommendation. Most of us will take it out of fridge/cellar, open and taste as the wine naturally rises in temperature over the course of the dinner/bottle. This is the most common way to experience the different aromas, bouquets and flavors of the wine.

When working or enjoying the heat of summer there is nothing like a cool, crisp glass of Chardonnay right out of the fridge and into the glass. It may not be proper wine etiquette, but it sure hits the spot (I am guessing, like a shot of  your favorite tequila right out the ice chest after your last wave of the day).”

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Chardonnay like a shot of tequila after surfing? This definitely wasn’t the 1990s version of “mother’s little helper” I normally associated with “chards.”

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Marathon Man download buy The Return of Swamp Thing So I popped the wine right out of the fridge, poured a glass, and settled into a playoff basketball game. The color in the glass was a wonderful light golden hue (almost matching the uniform of the team I was supporting), and although it had a familiar oakiness, there was something special there. The taste was definitely crisper than any other Chardonnay I’ve tasted, but it still had a richness that was both complex and slightly creamy. By halftime, that complexity had doubled, at least, as the temperature rose slightly. Damn. Kevin was right… as usual. I noticed some pear and honey undertones, as well as some refreshing citrus that went really well with the wasabi peas I was chomping on by the handful. I ran upstairs with a glass for my wife to see if she would like it (thinking that maybe Chardonnay had turned into a macho-man drink). She shot my theory down after her first sip and scolded me for drinking half the bottle without her.

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Everybody knows that wine goes better with food. Wines and Makers founder Andrea Godard’s done a great job of suggesting food pairings and recipes from her personal “greatest hits” for specific offerings at WAM. But, almost as important as edibles is the atmosphere you enjoy wine in. When I lived with Andrea in San Francisco, her house was always filled with great wine, food, music and musicians and they all played off each other perfectly. If a band wasn’t playing in her back yard, music was constantly setting the mood in her warm dining room, which was filled with artwork, books, and exotic brick-a-brack from her travels.

It’s with that unforgettable ambiance in mind that I introduce my first “music paring” – a suggested album that goes incredibly well with a bottle available here at WAM.

When I opened the Banyan 2007 Gewurztraminer Vantage Point buy , I was a little nervous actually. Not only was I slightly wary of the elongated bottle (which, for some reason, I always associate with sweet wine), but I realized I had no experience with this varietal—I couldn’t even spell it!

The first sip was a nice surprise. It was bright, floral, and slightly spicy—not sweet, but certainly pleasant on the tongue. With my tastebuds dancing, I headed to my computer: I knew exactly what album matched it.

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I’ve been digging The Clientele for a while, since I borrowed their second LP, Strange Geometry

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, from a friend and left it in my player for a month or so. But 2007’s God Save the Clientele

is as close as you can get to the sonic equivalent of the Banyan Gewurtz

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. It’s bright, light, crisp and unpretentious. It makes you feel like it’s springtime, even while frost is on the pumpkin; it makes you nostalgic for the past; it makes you feel clean-shaven and buttoned up.  The first track, “Here Comes the Phantom” fits right in with the world’s greatest jangle-pop. When you hear that “happiness just comes and goes” you think about hits by the Monkees, the Beatles, or even the Beach Boys… And, much like the wine, the album just gets better from the first taste on. By the time you reach “Somebody Changed,” you’ll be reaching for your second glass and reminiscing about high school crushes the first time you heard the Byrds. It’s warm feelings like those that wine and good music have a certain knack at summoning.

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The Clientele’s God Save the Clientele is available from emusic

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Howard Stern’s Butt Bongo Fiesta move or iTunes, and the 2007 Banyan Gewurz is a steal for $12 here at Wines and Makers.

Nostradamus: 2012

Okay, sorry to punish you with yet another Zinfandel pun, but it’s not often that I get to open three wines on the same night—at the same time… so … you know … forgive my zins.

Tonight we played a little game I call “Wine Taster Shout-out” where everybody at the table takes a mouthful of the same wine, swishes it around, swallows, and then has to quickly state the first flavor, or flavors, that come to mind. The three Zinfandels that we popped were the 2005 St. Amant (Old Vine), the 2005 Martin (Old Vine), and the 2006 MoniClaire. The participants were my mom, dad, wife and best friend.

And without further ado, here are our shout-outs:

ST. AMANT

“Vanilla!”
“Black cherry.”
“Caramel!”
“Chocolate!”
“Tobacco.”
“Grape Jolly Rancher.”
“A giant pomegranate seed, squeezed into my mouth.”

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